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But what sources did they use in the 18 th century to catch the latest trends when none of these media existed?
This paper examines how a doll called Pandora was sent abroad by French dressmakers to promote and sell Parisian fashion around the world. First, Pandora had to conquer the royal houses in Europe. Then, she made her way into the department stores and finally into the bourgeois home.
Interestingly, her triumphal procession did not stop there: By the middle of the 18 th century she had even crossed the Atlantic to be exhibited in Boston and New York. The three essential questions that need to be answered are: 1 When did the first fashion doll appear?
Consequently, I have two main foci: First, I want to find out as to why Parisian fashion was already the leading fashion in the 18th century; second, I want to trace the history of the fashion doll. The story of Pandora has hardly been investigated so far, which is rather surprising, since it is not simply a story about fashion but also tells us something about the earliest forms of fashion consumption as well as the successful use of communication tools and sales promotion.
For my research, I primarily used data from the web, periodicals of the 18 th century, published reports about the Pandora, and works dealing with the history of fashion in 18thcentury Britain. Dolls are known in almost all cultures and throughout the ages have been widely used as toys and religious objects.
It is assumed that in prehistoric societies dolls that looked like humans had a magic or religious significance. According to Mauger et al. During the Middle Ages in Europe the doll was used to depict reli- gious events, chief among these being Native scenes. These dolls were modeled after children, monks, and women, dressed in the fashion of the time. One of the notable characteristics of these dolls was a circular hollow in the breast. It has been speculated that these cavities may have been designed to hold a christening gift, such as a florin.
Archaeologists noted the existence of similar dolls in diggings, which indicated that these dolls were made in multiple numbers. These discoveries indicated that the doll industry was [already] a thriving enterprise at this time.
Apart from Germany, France became an early centre of European doll manufacture. However, the first references of the wooden doll, the prototype of the Pandora, can be traced back to France in the early 14th century. It confirms the natural pre-eminence of Paris in the world of fashion to find an English Queen sending over for the latest French styles as early as the fourteenth century, presumably unsatisfied by the products of her native country.
Historical documents around the s have mentioned this practice. For instance, the court records provide information that in the French queen sent fashion dolls as gifts to the queen of England. Furthermore, the presented excurse into the history suggests that France was already the leading nation in fashion. Within a short period of time the remaining European royal houses and nobilities ordered Pandora dolls on a regular basis to be informed about the latest fashion trends.
The 18th Century: One Big Puppet Show The heyday of the Pandora was the 18th century, because during that period the French Fashion Baby became one of the most influential objects in the fashion industry.
These Pandoras were sent out by French fashion houses to England, Germany, Spain and Italy, sometimes to exhibit the details of their dresses, and sometimes for the details of their coiffures alone — as in a doll which Madame de Sevigne sent to her daughter, or the thirty coiffured dolls which were exhibited at the annual show of Saint-Ovide in As cultural legacies, products and role models of their times the dolls cannot be judged without references to wider economic and social conditions.
First, at the beginning of the 18th century it became easier and more comfortable to travel around Europe due to the fact, that a growing public transportation system developed, which provided a high level of mobility.
Second, numerous small continental courts sprang up and flourished, which helped the fashion industry to increase and to expand significantly. Besides this, it is important to bear in mind that in England the sumptuary laws had already lost their relevance during the 17th century and were eventually abolished. Consequently people were now freer to choose what clothes they wanted to wear, and the dresses of the 18th century reflected these changes.
In order to understand the appeal of fashion — and its relationship to the idea of democratization — one must recognize that it was not until the repeal of sumptuary laws, restricting the wearing of high fashions, that citizens were free to choose their attire. The economic and social life of the eighteenth century was more conducive than that of previous eras to an interest in dolls, both for fashion purposes and as playthings for children.
Only the wealthy could afford dressed dolls, but rising affluence among the middle class increased the demand, especially in England, where a large portion of the extant eighteenth-century dolls originated. Fabrication and Clothing of the Dolls The next logical question is: how were these dolls made and what did they look like? Included in the manikin and specially made dolls of the 18th Cent- ury were those with head and arms of wax and body of wood, cloth, or kid.
They were to be brought to a high state of realism in the mid 19thCentury by Madame Montanari, life-like features and hair embedded in the wax to simulate natural growth being among the details.
It must be remembered that wide geographic variations are evident in the dolls of this period. The carving on continental dolls in most cases is quite different from the carving on dolls found in England and America. English dolls usually have simple peg joints; many continental dolls have combination peg and ball joints.
The wooden parts of her body and head painted with cream- coloured paint, over a coating of gesso a mixture of plaster of Paris and glue. The hair of the dolls was designed to be worn in the popular style of the time because it was absolutely essential that besides wearing the right clothes, the Pandora had the latest hairstyle as well as accessories that matched her wardrobe.
Interestingly, although most 18th century dolls represented women or girls, there also existed male, boy and even infant dolls. Unfortunately, the vast majority of these fashion figures of the late 17 th and early 18th century have not withstood the test of time. This is due to two reasons: Firstly, the unwieldy size of the dolls and secondly, the material that was used to make them.
But wax was at best a perishable medium and the comparative- ly few early dolls that have survived were probably not played with by their young owners. Besides they were also expensive, so the doll carried about by day and tucked under the pillow by night was probably the home-made rag doll or its equivalent.
The Pandora as Travelling Mannequin and Saleswoman Intended as advertisement for the French fashion and the dressmakers, the dolls functioned as mannequins and were dressed in a petite-size version of everything a fashionable woman needed to wear, including the proper foundation garments, which meant that the Pandoras were outfitted head to toe and displayed the latest fashions concerning clothes and hairstyle.
Some even wore a stomacher, which was in fashion throughout the 17th and 18th century in Europe and North America. The stomacher was a v-shaped piece of fabric made either of the same material as the dress or of contrasting materials. It was worn across the chest and stomach and embroidered or decorated with pearls or other gemstones. Knitted stockings, shoes, a muslin cap and jewellery often completed the outfit. Another question is: who were the potential buyers of the fashion dolls?
First, the dressmakers and tailors purchased the fashion doll. Since fashion was extremely expensive, the rich costumers wanted to have a look at what they were going to spend their money on.
In addition to the miniature dolls very soon the human-sized versions of the fashion doll came into existence. This was the moment when the aristocratic and bourgeois women started collecting the dolls. They can be easily copied. I have mainly used the pattern pieces for research and have not made a specific garment from this book.
There is a wealth of information in this book! I love this book! Anyone wanting to clothe vintage-type dolls in appropriate clothing will get an in-depth understanding of fashions as they were on the dolls sold at the time. Extensive photos and also illustrations that were used in periodicals, trade magazines, and pattern jackets.
Also, drawings of patterns from over the years are in a section at the back and serve as a guideline to the proper dimensions of a particular fashion. The author also often gives a general idea of the makeup of a number of crocheted doll items. My only complaint is that the book doesn't always list the particular issue during a year that the illustrations were in. Highly recommended. I'm very happy with this book.
Delivery was fast, it was a great price and is in great condition. A must have for doll makers or anyone interested in costumes or fashion. One person found this helpful. Have a couple of old dolls that I want to dress fashionably for their age.
Think this book will help considerably. The book is lovely except it is not what I thought i was purchasing. I needed a book more about period clothing. The book was pricey, and more worn than I expected. I've already enjoyed some evening reading with this ten ton book I love it. This is a great reference book! I recommend it to anyone who loves dolls and also likes to sew authentic clothes for them. See all reviews. Top reviews from other countries.
Superb book which gives a complete guide to dolls clothes styles and fabrics including original patterns at the back. Report abuse. Well worth owning. Sort order. Wendyb rated it it was amazing Nov 04, Erika rated it it was amazing Jul 16, Mrs Crowe marked it as to-read Nov 04, H added it May 17, Anna Cappelli marked it as to-read Jun 10, Daniel marked it as to-read Oct 16, Janice Forbes marked it as to-read May 21, Yong marked it as to-read Aug 23, Diora marked it as to-read May 14, Moonblazes marked it as to-read Aug 06, There are no discussion topics on this book yet.
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